Your Selection
Featured
Eyewear
Footwear
Knitwear
Clothing
Leather Goods
Homeware
Craftsmanship at Archibald
Workshops
Workshops
The Search
By Rohan Dhir, Founder
Of all the journeys we have taken to find the best craftsmen in the world, my first trip to Japan to find our eyewear artisans was undoubtedly the most important. All I had at the time was a bold idea for a better way of making and selling. A way that cut out middlemen, marketing and other unnecessary costs so consumers got a fair price on a product made exquisitely well. The world of eyewear is muddled, with low grade offerings dominating the market at astounding markups. I set out to see if I could do just the opposite of what other direct to consumer brands were doing. Instead of offering a poor quality product at a high markup, I wanted to offer the best I could and sell it at the best price possible. Having raised a small amount of money for my first research trip, I set out as a fresh graduate and for three months fully immersed myself in the world of manufacturing. The journey to find manufacturers that matched my vision saw me visiting luxury eyewear factories across the world. I travelled to China, Italy, France, Germany and Korea, finally ending up in Japan. Japan was my final effort to find what I was looking for- I had become deeply deeply disillusioned with the corner cutting and poor manufacturing techniques I had seen on my travels elsewhere. I even wondered if some of the products I had previously dismissed as being rubbish and poorly made were in fact simply the norm in a world dominated by the drive towards constantly increasing mass production.
Welcome to Sabae
There’s only one place in Japan that’s spoken of with reverence when eyewear is mentioned. Four and a half hours by 'Shinkansen' from Tokyo lies the town of Sabae, a small manufacturing outpost in the Fukui prefecture. As you walk out of the small station you are greeted by a larger-than-life iron statue of a pair of round glasses, immediately letting you know in no uncertain terms just what the residents of this town do. It wasn't long before I realised things were done differently here. A chance encounter with a craftsman leaving the same train saw me invited to one of the most respected frame polishing workshops in Sabae for tea, and my discovery of the workshop that would transform my perception of quality eyewear. The people of Sabae have been making eyewear for over a 100 years. When Japan was first experiencing a manufacturing boom in the early 1900s, the town was seen as a second grade outpost where the bulk of low to mid end eyewear was produced. However the Japanese are never ones to rest on being "producers" and as cultural nuances played their role, they injected their own philosophies into the manufacturing process, quickly transforming it into a centre for luxury optical manufacturing. Sabae employs a guild-like system, where each craftsman claims their own speciality within the making process. In doing so, the craftsmen became highly specialised and gained status as the best in the world in accomplishing specific tasks within the manufacturing process. This highly skilled production method faced deep challenge in the 1990s, with the rise of Chinese manufacturing, fast fashion, and low-cost unskilled industrial approaches. Cost cutting by global luxury firms brought dishonest tactics by foreign brands to Sabae, threatening to destroy the local industry. Interestingly, the very best workshops would generally refuse to work with these brands, opting to work with local, Japanese brands. It was this caution that ensured their survival.
The Workshops
After several dinners where my intentions were being sussed out, I befriended the son of legendary craftsman Takiron Rowland. I showed him how our model represented a new of selling and a means to celebrate the great 'Takumi' of Sabae. By selling direct, prices would be lower and more people could gain access to these beautiful products - our model could preserve their great art and ensure the town would continue to thrive. The agreement marked the first time that an overseas brand was accepted to work as part of the managed flow of 16 of the top workshops in Sabae. As our team has expanded and the complexity of manufacturing increased, we have established close personal relationships with craftsmen in each of these 16 different workshops. Through dinners, countless beers and enjoyable nights at the local izakayas, we have formed a bond that represents everything we want to stand for at Archibald.
The craftsmen only use locally sourced materials. Acetate from famed manufacturer Takiron Rowland and Japanese three, five barrel and kashime hinges form the basic ingredients and these are supplemented with various resins, chips, nose pads etc that form the result.
The Process
Each of our acetate frames require over 200 manual processes completed by hand prior to quality control. In the pursuit of creating truly wonderful and exceptional pieces, each process takes place at a different specialised workshop. Scheduling manufacture at this level is complex, and any delays and changes mean that all workshops need to be informed along the flow of production.
The craftsmen only use locally sourced materials. Acetate from renowned manufacturer Takiron Rowland and Japanese three, five barrel and kashime hinges form the basic ingredients and these are supplemented with various resins, chips, nose pads and more that form the end product. Production focuses on working in small quantities to ensure each frame receives the attention it deserves. Each process is carefully handcrafted by artisans who are considered masters in their field - a reflection of their skill and over a century's worth of experience. Each of our frames must undergo three rounds of rigorous quality checks to gain approval – first by the quality control section of the facility and then at two different stages by our most senior expert, referred to as “Sennmu.” Upon completion, each frame receives a unique production number etched into its temple, a reminder that every piece carries it's own creation story and subtle distinguishing characteristics.
